Organists and Organ Playing

Ancient ruins

Today we visited an open air theatre with incredible acoustics in Epidaurus. Constructed in the late 4th century BC, it is considered to be the most perfect ancient Greek theatre with regard to acoustics and aesthetics. We heard examples of this today, when a person on the stage would whisper, and we could hear them clearly from the seats. In fact, the acoustics here are so amazing that microphones are strictly forbidden! However music of any kind is also prohibited, so there are no concerts allowed. Even we as visitors are banned from singing any musical songs.

Only ancient dramatic plays are allowed to be performed here, although our local guide, Sofia, told us that the works of Shakespeare are now allowed.

Something that I learned today is that Greek theatres are always without a roof, and this particular structure is called a theatre, in the shape of a half-circle. An amphitheater is in the shape of a complete oval, with the two half-circles.

However, the great opera singer, Maria Callas, was allowed to perform here, probably because at the time she was in a romance with the Greek shipping magnate, Aristotle Onassis, even though they were married to others. (Money opens doors!) A complete account may be read here.

Shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis with Maria Callas, in Epidaurus, circa 1960. [HULTON ARCHIVE, ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE/GETTY IMAGES/IDEAL IMAGE]

We were told Elizabeth Taylor attended the concert and our guide pointed out the exact seat in the front row. Of course, we had to have our pictures taken there!

I insisted on taking Bill Potter’s picture in the same seat!

We next traveled to the archaeological site of Mycenae, which was one of the major centers of Greek civilization in the second millennium BC. Notable is the Lions Gate near where many priceless artifacts were found.

Many people climbed to the top, but I (and Bill) were not among those who wanted to make the effort. Still we were able to have a panoramic view of the valley below.

Many places we have visited have been overrun by visitors, especially school groups. This is the week before Holy Week in Greece, and schools are taking advantage by offering educational field trips.

Wow! Crowds just like at Disneyland.

After lunch, we visited the Tomb of Agamemnon, a king of Mycenae who led the Greek army to victory in the Trojan War by tricking the Trojans with the Trojan Horse. When Agamemnon returned home, he was killed by his wife Clytemnestra, and her lover, Aegisthus.

Our last stop was at a pottery workshop.

Tomorrow we’ll check out of the hotel and travel to Corinth and then to Athens.

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