Our tour director, Manuel, had good news for us. Someone had already paid the 300 euros to sponsor the botafumeiro at the pilgrim mass we were planning to attend at the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. Otherwise it would have cost our group 20 euros each to sponsor the botafumeiro, which is only used on certain occasions or if someone sponsors it.

In case you’re not familiar with it:

One of the most famous symbols of the cathedral is the Botafumeiro, which may be largest censer in the world. It is used at masses celebrated on key dates at the cathedral. It is also used every Friday (except for Good Friday) at the 7.30 p.m. mass, an homage to the pilgrim by the city of Santiago. It may also be used on other occasions upon request from pilgrim groups. The aroma of the incense has a powerful symbolic connection to prayer and spiritual purification: ‘May my prayer be set before you like incense’ (Psalm 141:2).

The Botafumeiro weighs 53 kilograms and measures 1.5 metres. Using a complex system of pulleys, it is swung from the central cupola of the cathedral, from which it hangs, towards the side aisles. It takes eight men, known as tiraboleiros, to move it. It is suspended from a height of 20 metres and can reach speeds up to 68 km/h.

In addition to being a symbol of prayer the botafumeiro was used to mask the smell of the stinky pilgrims who were not able to bathe during their travels!

I can’t tell you how thrilling it was to be there and to watch the botafumeiro swing above our heads, along with hearing inspiring organ music. We had great seats in the transept. Up to now, the rest of the service was accompanied quite softly. Even my sister whispered to me, if they have that fancy organ, does the organist ever play loud music? Oh, yes!

This was definitely a bucket list item that could be checked off!

Maria, our local guide, led us on a walking tour of Santiago from underneath our umbrellas! This has been the ONLY rain of our tour so far, and there were plenty of arched walkways to walk under to get away from the rain. We first saw the Cathedral from a distance, and then walked to the large square in front where pilgrims encounter the scallop shell on the ground and step on it, in an act of triumph after walking so far.

In the afternoon the sun came out and we were off to the Cape Finisterre, which the Romans believed was the end of the known world. Finisterre was the final destination for pilgrims on the Way of St. James, and you can see me with the marker marked zero.

Along the way, we saw a picturesque bridge at Ponte Maceira and the Rio Xallas waterfall in Mirador de Ézaro.

Tomorrow we travel to Portugal!